(To be clear, "waterproof" in the title means weatherproof... not 2 meters under water)
Interphone is a division of Cellular Line, the biggest cell phone accessories maker in Europe. Interphone products are designed for the motorcycle and power sport enthusiast and include waterproof Bluetooth motorcycle intercoms and accessories. Naturally if you are riding with a waterproof motorcycle headset there is a good chance that circumstances will arise where your audio source, a GPS or phone, may need to be exposed to the elements as well. So Interphone came up with their motorcycle GPS and iPhone holders with handle mounting kits.
The Interphone SM43 is designed for GPS and electronics with a 4.3" screen (also available is a SM35 for 3.5" screen devices). The holder / case is made up of thick but flexible plastic, a water resistant zipper and clear screen cover which is just thin enough that you can use an electrostatic touch screen through it (with effort and sometimes multiple attempts). It has a pass through port for the device power cord and a D-link for connecting the included tether to the handle bars. Three different thicknesses of spacers are also included to put behind the device and keep it tight against the clear protector window.
The Interphone iPhone 4 / 4S case with motorcycle mount is a hard plastic clam shell that splits the depth of the phone with a hinge at the top, rubber cushion and water sealing around the edges and a latching clamp on each side which hold pressure on the sealing surface. It has provisions for both of the iPhone cameras, a charging port and the headphone jack. Because the top hinge is outside the shell and the charging connector area is inside the case (it seals around the cable) the total length of the Interphone case extends the iPhone length by about an inch. For this reason you would not want to use the Interphone iPhone case as a normal every day case but the design allows for easy entry and removal of the phone when you do want to use the iPhone on your motorcycle.
All of the Interphone holders slide on to the motorcycle handle bar mounts and lock in with a plastic tab. Prying down the tab with one finger allows the holder to slide off the mount and quickly be removed while the mount stays on the bike. When you buy the device holders, you can choose either a round bar mount clamp or a non-round mounting system. Both are made entirely of plastic and are not particularly robust but do their job fine. The round handle bar clamp is quite simple. It includes 3 positions for different handle bar diameters from 3/4" up to 1 1/8". A simple thumb screw is used for tightening it on to the motorcycle handle bar. There is a ball and socket that allows the device connecting point to be swiveled 360 degrees and angled about 15 degrees in any direction. This 15 degree angle is NOT enough to allow it to be mounted to the riser part of the handle bars. It must be installed on the horizontal area of the handle bar. We would have preferred to have a more flexible or adjustable design but so long as you have a free horizontal area on your bars it will work great. The 2nd mounting option, for non-tubular motorcycle bars, is less elegant. It is essentially a giant ¾" wide zip tie that can be released and reused or re-adjusted. It does however have 2 ball / socket hinge points about 3" apart and allows for more mounting options than the simple tubular mounting hardware.
If you need a quick simple solution for mounting your GPS or iPhone on your motorcycle handle bars and are worried about the weather, the Interphone cell phone holders may fill your needs perfectly. If you are looking for a robust design that can handle adventure touring, light or heavy off road use consider the RAM Mount line up instead.
Wednesday, 31 October 2012
H-D Revisited: Motorcycle Adapted for Armed Forces Use
Harley-Davidson debuted its 45 " (750cc), 4 camshaft, 45-degree V-twins (labeled 45) in 1929 and officially called this design the DL. This motorcycle includes a vertical generator that's driven by a helical gear.
H-D released a modified style in 1932 known as RL, that includes a generator that is similar with the lower part. In 1937, Harley-Davidson began generating the up graded WL, that includes a re-distributing petrol system. All older models have total loss oil systems. These bikes specified for mild biking and have a top speed of 55 or 60 mph, depending on the gear weight. In 1939, H-D started out transforming its bikes to suit US military demands, making a motorcycle for the Army before the US was even in the war.
At first glance, there are a number of variations that stand out on a civilian WL as well as the military WLA. The WLA is installed with a firearm scabbard, a bullet compartment, lower leg guards, a skid plate, big bags, a rugged baggage rack, and tall fitted side mirrors. While these are generally most of the noticeable differences, there are a number of more fine improvements. Even though the primary design of the WLA is the same as a private H-D 45, most of the components are distinct when compared with their private cousins. As an example, one of the biggest concerns with the military 45s was getting spotted by attack planes. The solution for this problem was to dress up the motorcycles with dark colored equipment. The headlight has a metallic cover above the lens and reflector that has a small hood emerging from the top part that permits a beam of light to shine ahead of the motorcycle; it can be seen at on the ground and not from above. Equivalent lights were installed at the rear of the motorbike for taillights and brake lights. The dashboard lights, which happens to be caution lights to inform the driver if he's got a problem with the charging mechanism or if perhaps the petrol isn't distributing, are also blacked out. Instead of the typical lenses, they get black lenses with a small 0.090" hole punched directly into them, in case mechanism fails and the warning signals came on, an aircraft wouldn't discover the bikes, yet the rider could.
The WLA motor is kind of the same as the standard edition WL, with just a few minimal differences. The heads have reduce compression versions, plus the return engine oil pump has a little fitting for a petrol line that goes to the back chain. The carb incorporates a fixed, high-speed needle to shield the bike from some farm dude power-tuning the motorbike and burning up the motor. The common copper fine mesh air filter was exchanged with an oil bath air cleanser, which is the same as the filtering design and style applied to semi-trailers.
And also the tires are produced from diverse rubber. Due to material reduction at the time of the war, wheels and other rubberized parts were made of a synthetic rubber chemical substance. Anything from autos to buses needed to start using these type of tires in order to contribute in the war effort. Interestingly, WLAs yet used rubber hand grips much like the pre-war private bikes. The rubber foot-board mats were replaced with metallic mats sometime around the early 40s.
Other tweaks are the fuel and oil tank, which have been fitted with additional drains and bungs. The fenders had the skirts eliminated and so mud and dirt could simply be rinsed off the tires. And also the saddle was modified to be a more robust and stronger piece. The seat pan has an extra bit of metal on the exterior lip and 3 rivets that go through the cover to secure the seam from tearing in the event the motorbike falls over.
As soon as the conflict ended, H-D had produced over 70,000 motorbikes for the war effort, together with thousands upon thousands of various other spare parts to help keep the bikes running. These motorcycles are great bikes that did their part to win the war.
H-D released a modified style in 1932 known as RL, that includes a generator that is similar with the lower part. In 1937, Harley-Davidson began generating the up graded WL, that includes a re-distributing petrol system. All older models have total loss oil systems. These bikes specified for mild biking and have a top speed of 55 or 60 mph, depending on the gear weight. In 1939, H-D started out transforming its bikes to suit US military demands, making a motorcycle for the Army before the US was even in the war.
At first glance, there are a number of variations that stand out on a civilian WL as well as the military WLA. The WLA is installed with a firearm scabbard, a bullet compartment, lower leg guards, a skid plate, big bags, a rugged baggage rack, and tall fitted side mirrors. While these are generally most of the noticeable differences, there are a number of more fine improvements. Even though the primary design of the WLA is the same as a private H-D 45, most of the components are distinct when compared with their private cousins. As an example, one of the biggest concerns with the military 45s was getting spotted by attack planes. The solution for this problem was to dress up the motorcycles with dark colored equipment. The headlight has a metallic cover above the lens and reflector that has a small hood emerging from the top part that permits a beam of light to shine ahead of the motorcycle; it can be seen at on the ground and not from above. Equivalent lights were installed at the rear of the motorbike for taillights and brake lights. The dashboard lights, which happens to be caution lights to inform the driver if he's got a problem with the charging mechanism or if perhaps the petrol isn't distributing, are also blacked out. Instead of the typical lenses, they get black lenses with a small 0.090" hole punched directly into them, in case mechanism fails and the warning signals came on, an aircraft wouldn't discover the bikes, yet the rider could.
The WLA motor is kind of the same as the standard edition WL, with just a few minimal differences. The heads have reduce compression versions, plus the return engine oil pump has a little fitting for a petrol line that goes to the back chain. The carb incorporates a fixed, high-speed needle to shield the bike from some farm dude power-tuning the motorbike and burning up the motor. The common copper fine mesh air filter was exchanged with an oil bath air cleanser, which is the same as the filtering design and style applied to semi-trailers.
And also the tires are produced from diverse rubber. Due to material reduction at the time of the war, wheels and other rubberized parts were made of a synthetic rubber chemical substance. Anything from autos to buses needed to start using these type of tires in order to contribute in the war effort. Interestingly, WLAs yet used rubber hand grips much like the pre-war private bikes. The rubber foot-board mats were replaced with metallic mats sometime around the early 40s.
Other tweaks are the fuel and oil tank, which have been fitted with additional drains and bungs. The fenders had the skirts eliminated and so mud and dirt could simply be rinsed off the tires. And also the saddle was modified to be a more robust and stronger piece. The seat pan has an extra bit of metal on the exterior lip and 3 rivets that go through the cover to secure the seam from tearing in the event the motorbike falls over.
As soon as the conflict ended, H-D had produced over 70,000 motorbikes for the war effort, together with thousands upon thousands of various other spare parts to help keep the bikes running. These motorcycles are great bikes that did their part to win the war.
Horizon Bars - Fully Adjustable Motorcycle Handle Bars From HeliBars
Want to ride your cruiser or sport touring motorcycle for six, eight or even 10 hours in a day without your back killing you? You better make your motorcycle fit you. Long distance motorcycle riders know that to be able to enjoy riding for hours at a time the motorcycle seating and handle bar positions must be perfect. Although there are lots of different handle bar shapes and risers available, only one handle bar system, the Horizon Bars from Heli Modified, allows you to independently adjust reach, height and wrist angle.
HeliBars are made in Maine and come in different sizes and shapes for Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Yamaha and BMW motorcycles. Most models raise the sport bike's handle bars by about 2" and push them back towards the rider 1" - 2" allowing the rider to sit more upright and transfer weight off the wrists. Now Heli Modified has an adjustable solution for cruisers and sport touring motorcycle models called the Horizon Bar. They come in 7" to 11" chrome or black models. Most motorcycle handle bars are only adjustable one direction (rotating forward / backward at the top of the forks) and rotating them towards the rider for a shorter reach also causes the hand grips to go down and wrist angle to no longer align straight with the forearm. The Horizon Bars motorcycle handle bar system has two extra hinge points allowing the height of the bar to be adjusted separate from the reach as well as a wrist angle adjustment.
Safety & Features
The Horizon Bars motorcycle system has been designed for use on Harley Davidson and some other cruiser models. They have safety features built into the design to prevent loss of control in the case that one of the hinge points becomes loose. Also, provisions are made for models with internal wiring or cabling. Bar riser HeliBars have been available for the Honda ST1300, Yamaha FJR and Kawasaki Concours which raise the bars and lower the reach. Now Heli offers bike specific adjustable Horizon Bars for these sport touring motorcycles so that riders can make the motorcycle fit them and enjoy riding even longer days.
Installation
Installing the Horizon Bars motorcycle handle bar system is simple but does take some time. In some instances the brake or clutch lines will have to be extended or replaced. They are 1" diameter bars so normal clamps and motorcycle hand grips will fit properly.
Don't take another ride with your back or wrists stretched. Instead, stretch your horizon by installing a set of Horizon Bars on your bike.
HeliBars are made in Maine and come in different sizes and shapes for Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Yamaha and BMW motorcycles. Most models raise the sport bike's handle bars by about 2" and push them back towards the rider 1" - 2" allowing the rider to sit more upright and transfer weight off the wrists. Now Heli Modified has an adjustable solution for cruisers and sport touring motorcycle models called the Horizon Bar. They come in 7" to 11" chrome or black models. Most motorcycle handle bars are only adjustable one direction (rotating forward / backward at the top of the forks) and rotating them towards the rider for a shorter reach also causes the hand grips to go down and wrist angle to no longer align straight with the forearm. The Horizon Bars motorcycle handle bar system has two extra hinge points allowing the height of the bar to be adjusted separate from the reach as well as a wrist angle adjustment.
Safety & Features
The Horizon Bars motorcycle system has been designed for use on Harley Davidson and some other cruiser models. They have safety features built into the design to prevent loss of control in the case that one of the hinge points becomes loose. Also, provisions are made for models with internal wiring or cabling. Bar riser HeliBars have been available for the Honda ST1300, Yamaha FJR and Kawasaki Concours which raise the bars and lower the reach. Now Heli offers bike specific adjustable Horizon Bars for these sport touring motorcycles so that riders can make the motorcycle fit them and enjoy riding even longer days.
Installation
Installing the Horizon Bars motorcycle handle bar system is simple but does take some time. In some instances the brake or clutch lines will have to be extended or replaced. They are 1" diameter bars so normal clamps and motorcycle hand grips will fit properly.
Don't take another ride with your back or wrists stretched. Instead, stretch your horizon by installing a set of Horizon Bars on your bike.
Tuesday, 30 October 2012
Honda Ruckus Front Fork Options
The first thing that most Ruckus enthusiasts want to do is get that front end as low as possible. It is a great thing to look at but many go about the wrong way of doing it. The most common thing to do for the first time home builder is to modify the OEM shocks. This lets them get a lowered bike without having to change over to a disc brake. The first thing that gets done is cutting the OEM Honda Spring. While inexpensive, cutting a spring not only lowers the bike but will also change the front spring rate. This is bad because usually it makes the front end too soft and easy to bottom out. Once you bottom out, you have no control and will probably have better luck riding a pedal bike on ice. If the spring can't control the wheel travel, it is useless and with that train of thought the other thing done is to completely remove the springs, which is just as dumb an idea as it sounds. Look, I understand the want of stance, but you have to have control of the bike even at just 40 MPH. Lower springs do exist outside of Honda, but you do have to do some research.
So, you want to spend the right money and buy aftermarket forks. Well, the market is full of great products and very bad ones, too. I won't name names or product lines, but I will tell you what to try to look out for. The biggest thing about forks is how they are dampened. What I mean is what controls the spring from springing back and forth, you that law of "for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction." It is not uncommon to see scooter forks with no dampening control at all. At the speeds most scooters see, especially an unmodified Ruckus GET engine, dampening control isn't important. However, as you modify and start to go faster on any scooter dampening becomes more and more important. The next most common dampening control on scooters is air. Air is easy to come by, free in most places, and is something that can be adjusted on the fly. Need stiffer forks, add more air. Need something softer, take out some air. You can't get any easier than that. Just be sure that the air you use is dry or try using nitrogen.
The least common, and very expensive to boot, is fluid dampened forks. There aren't many on the market for scooters. Again, the speeds that most scooters see do not require extreme types of dampening. However, if you are running yours at very high highway speeds or plan on going off road at high speeds, you may want to try and find a set. Control at these speeds and conditions are crucial and if your forks are not damped or under-dampened, you could be setting yourself up for loss of control. Remember, when you hit a bump with just the spring, it will continue to bound and unbound until all energy is lost. Just like a basketball, your tire will also bound and unbound and will not contact the surface as it is supposed to. That means you don't have complete control and, again, is not a good thing to be in.
So, you want to spend the right money and buy aftermarket forks. Well, the market is full of great products and very bad ones, too. I won't name names or product lines, but I will tell you what to try to look out for. The biggest thing about forks is how they are dampened. What I mean is what controls the spring from springing back and forth, you that law of "for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction." It is not uncommon to see scooter forks with no dampening control at all. At the speeds most scooters see, especially an unmodified Ruckus GET engine, dampening control isn't important. However, as you modify and start to go faster on any scooter dampening becomes more and more important. The next most common dampening control on scooters is air. Air is easy to come by, free in most places, and is something that can be adjusted on the fly. Need stiffer forks, add more air. Need something softer, take out some air. You can't get any easier than that. Just be sure that the air you use is dry or try using nitrogen.
The least common, and very expensive to boot, is fluid dampened forks. There aren't many on the market for scooters. Again, the speeds that most scooters see do not require extreme types of dampening. However, if you are running yours at very high highway speeds or plan on going off road at high speeds, you may want to try and find a set. Control at these speeds and conditions are crucial and if your forks are not damped or under-dampened, you could be setting yourself up for loss of control. Remember, when you hit a bump with just the spring, it will continue to bound and unbound until all energy is lost. Just like a basketball, your tire will also bound and unbound and will not contact the surface as it is supposed to. That means you don't have complete control and, again, is not a good thing to be in.
Tuesday, 23 October 2012
Live Your Dreams With Government Seized Motorcycles
These motorcycles are sold at auction, and you can often get them for a fraction of the cost that you would pay to buy them brand new. While the condition may not always be the best, you can always fix them up and make them look like new again. With prices this low available, you can buy two bikes- one for you and one for your spouse, without a dent in your pocket.
Finding Motorcycles for Auction
You can easily find out when an auction will be held that includes motorcycles. Most government agencies that seize property have a website that keeps you updated on auctions and what will be sold in them. Other government agencies may have to be contacted by phone to get a list of auction times and property being sold.
There are also some websites that offer government seized property for auction online. These online auctions are much nicer than the 'in person' auctions, because you do not get caught up in the moment and you can keep your bidding within your budget.
You also often have many more options to bid on when you use online auctions. The only down side to using online auctions is that you won't see the motorcycle in person, before you buy it. But, this also means that they go cheaper, and you can always fix up the government seized motorcycles if necessary for very little investment.
Choosing a Bike to Bid On
Of course, you want to choose the right bikes that fit your dreams and your budget. First, look at the description of the bike and see what stands out as far as features. Just as with a new bike, you will probably pay more for more features, but if they are a 'must have' on your list then just go for it. The second thing you need to look at with government seized motorcycles is condition. Consider both mechanical and aesthetic condition issues. Hopefully the bike will be sound and not need any work done at all. But it is possible that some work may be necessary, and you need to budget for that when you are bidding in an auction or considering buying outright.
Depending on the auction, whether or not it is online, you may have difficulty determining exactly what kind of condition or features the motorcycle has on it. But keep this in mind when you are bidding, that you don't know exactly what you are getting. You can always base your bids on what make and model the bike is, for example, if you prefer Harley Davidson over Honda.
In the end, you will find yourself with a great motorcycle for a fraction of the price. Even if you have to invest a bit of money into fixing it up, you will still be better off than if you had to buy it brand new, which most people cannot afford. Government seized motorcycles allow more people to live the 'on road' lifestyle they fancy, without costing them an arm a leg.
Finding Motorcycles for Auction
You can easily find out when an auction will be held that includes motorcycles. Most government agencies that seize property have a website that keeps you updated on auctions and what will be sold in them. Other government agencies may have to be contacted by phone to get a list of auction times and property being sold.
There are also some websites that offer government seized property for auction online. These online auctions are much nicer than the 'in person' auctions, because you do not get caught up in the moment and you can keep your bidding within your budget.
You also often have many more options to bid on when you use online auctions. The only down side to using online auctions is that you won't see the motorcycle in person, before you buy it. But, this also means that they go cheaper, and you can always fix up the government seized motorcycles if necessary for very little investment.
Choosing a Bike to Bid On
Of course, you want to choose the right bikes that fit your dreams and your budget. First, look at the description of the bike and see what stands out as far as features. Just as with a new bike, you will probably pay more for more features, but if they are a 'must have' on your list then just go for it. The second thing you need to look at with government seized motorcycles is condition. Consider both mechanical and aesthetic condition issues. Hopefully the bike will be sound and not need any work done at all. But it is possible that some work may be necessary, and you need to budget for that when you are bidding in an auction or considering buying outright.
Depending on the auction, whether or not it is online, you may have difficulty determining exactly what kind of condition or features the motorcycle has on it. But keep this in mind when you are bidding, that you don't know exactly what you are getting. You can always base your bids on what make and model the bike is, for example, if you prefer Harley Davidson over Honda.
In the end, you will find yourself with a great motorcycle for a fraction of the price. Even if you have to invest a bit of money into fixing it up, you will still be better off than if you had to buy it brand new, which most people cannot afford. Government seized motorcycles allow more people to live the 'on road' lifestyle they fancy, without costing them an arm a leg.
Keeping Your Tires Ready and Safe for the Road
Bike Tire Safeguard
In search of motorcycle essentials that are portable and can be carried by lone riders like me and following some minor damage to the front tire of my motorcycle, I have personally been having issues getting it to balance properly.
I first discovered this product from a good friend I met at a bike convention. Several other products and quick solutions have been on the market for many years, but the tire protection system differentiates itself by giving these added advantages: tire sealing in the case of a flat tire, longer tire life span, reduction of road shakes, tire balance.
Previously mentioned, I've discovered that the products claim regarding balancing is quite accurate. Soon after taking the tire weights apart my front side rim and using this product, the motorbike performed like new once again. It was absolutely a big bonus not to buy a brand new front wheel to resolve this inconvenient bike mishap I experienced.
This also adds to your bike safety when applied to your tires, with this it will prevent rapid loss of pressure in case you get a flat tire. Uncommon as it may be, thinking of a front side tire blowout will need to have most motorcycle drivers find the best defense on this unpredictable incident. With this, I'm going to be including this tire saver to my rear tire as well..
Wheel Test
I find that checking tire pressure over a motorcycle is easier when working with it having a pressure gauge with tilted head. Gauges with straight tips often don't meet among wheel spokes or right behind brake discs. I have amassed a considerable bunch of tire pressure gauges with angled heads in recently, but I do not leave behind a whole new angle-headed tire pressure gauge when I get a new one. I always use another. I stumbled upon this particular one at a nearby motorcycle retailer.
The Kobalt digital tire gauge possesses an ergonomic, rubberized gun grip,and you got it right, an angled chuck top. The position is more than 45 degrees, less than 90, rendering it perfect for working into rim crevices where tire valves hide out. It includes LCD displays on each side, which makes it easily readable regardless of whether you're left or right handed.
The gauge features 2 buttons; the first one is a power switch, and the other is a pressure-release function that enables you to release air out of the wheel if you filled it up more than the required PSI. The blue back lit digital display screen features a 1 minute programmed shut off. There's also a lanyard loop to hang the gauge on a hook in your garage area.
In search of motorcycle essentials that are portable and can be carried by lone riders like me and following some minor damage to the front tire of my motorcycle, I have personally been having issues getting it to balance properly.
I first discovered this product from a good friend I met at a bike convention. Several other products and quick solutions have been on the market for many years, but the tire protection system differentiates itself by giving these added advantages: tire sealing in the case of a flat tire, longer tire life span, reduction of road shakes, tire balance.
Previously mentioned, I've discovered that the products claim regarding balancing is quite accurate. Soon after taking the tire weights apart my front side rim and using this product, the motorbike performed like new once again. It was absolutely a big bonus not to buy a brand new front wheel to resolve this inconvenient bike mishap I experienced.
This also adds to your bike safety when applied to your tires, with this it will prevent rapid loss of pressure in case you get a flat tire. Uncommon as it may be, thinking of a front side tire blowout will need to have most motorcycle drivers find the best defense on this unpredictable incident. With this, I'm going to be including this tire saver to my rear tire as well..
Wheel Test
I find that checking tire pressure over a motorcycle is easier when working with it having a pressure gauge with tilted head. Gauges with straight tips often don't meet among wheel spokes or right behind brake discs. I have amassed a considerable bunch of tire pressure gauges with angled heads in recently, but I do not leave behind a whole new angle-headed tire pressure gauge when I get a new one. I always use another. I stumbled upon this particular one at a nearby motorcycle retailer.
The Kobalt digital tire gauge possesses an ergonomic, rubberized gun grip,and you got it right, an angled chuck top. The position is more than 45 degrees, less than 90, rendering it perfect for working into rim crevices where tire valves hide out. It includes LCD displays on each side, which makes it easily readable regardless of whether you're left or right handed.
The gauge features 2 buttons; the first one is a power switch, and the other is a pressure-release function that enables you to release air out of the wheel if you filled it up more than the required PSI. The blue back lit digital display screen features a 1 minute programmed shut off. There's also a lanyard loop to hang the gauge on a hook in your garage area.
Leather Biker Chaps, Are They Just For Looks?
Take note, the next time you go out for a drive on the open road, at how many motorcycles and riders there are sharing the highways these days. Motorcycle riding has been around for years, and I sure don't see it going out of style anytime soon. Motorcycle riding has grown in popularity with each year that passes. It has become more popular not only with the men but especially the lady riders as well.
Now days people ride not only for the enjoyment and the tranquility that one receives from being on the open road with the wind rushing against their face. They also ride their motorcycles because of the economy and the rising cost of gas. A motorcycle gets far better gas mileage than driving your vehicle everywhere you go. This is why we are sharing the road with more and more motorcycles today.
Have you ever noticed just how many of the riders on those bikes are wearing leather biker chaps?
Have you ever wondered why they wear them?
Most people that see a biker notice the motorcycle chaps that he or she is wearing. The average person probably thinks the rider is wearing them to personify a certain image.
Almost like the character Fonzie, on the Sitcom Happy Days, take away his leather jacket and to most people he just doesn't look as cool. He just wouldn't be Fonzie without that leather jacket. Did he wear it just to look cool? We may never know. All we know is that leather jacket was just part of him and it sure painted an image of his personality.
Most people see the same in a biker. Almost to the point of them thinking, "A rider isn't a full-fledged biker if he or she doesn't have on their leather biker chaps. " While I agree as a fellow rider, that for some reason my motorcycle leather chaps makes me feel whole as a rider, they do draw attention and put off a very cool image. Most riders always wear some form of leather when they ride. Whether riding in cold or hot weather. Some may wonder why the biker is usually wearing a form of leather, but just never ask.
The truth of the matter is this. They wear the leathers not only because they are cool looking. Also, the leather acts as a second skin in case of an accident. In an accident the leathers allow you to slide across the pavement. This way the pavement may eat away at your motorcycle leather chaps, but at the same time your leathers are helping to protect your skin.
Although, wearing leathers does not make you invincible, without leathers your skin is totally unprotected. I believe that all riders should have a set of quality genuine leathers if for no other reason than protection.
Now days people ride not only for the enjoyment and the tranquility that one receives from being on the open road with the wind rushing against their face. They also ride their motorcycles because of the economy and the rising cost of gas. A motorcycle gets far better gas mileage than driving your vehicle everywhere you go. This is why we are sharing the road with more and more motorcycles today.
Have you ever noticed just how many of the riders on those bikes are wearing leather biker chaps?
Have you ever wondered why they wear them?
Most people that see a biker notice the motorcycle chaps that he or she is wearing. The average person probably thinks the rider is wearing them to personify a certain image.
Almost like the character Fonzie, on the Sitcom Happy Days, take away his leather jacket and to most people he just doesn't look as cool. He just wouldn't be Fonzie without that leather jacket. Did he wear it just to look cool? We may never know. All we know is that leather jacket was just part of him and it sure painted an image of his personality.
Most people see the same in a biker. Almost to the point of them thinking, "A rider isn't a full-fledged biker if he or she doesn't have on their leather biker chaps. " While I agree as a fellow rider, that for some reason my motorcycle leather chaps makes me feel whole as a rider, they do draw attention and put off a very cool image. Most riders always wear some form of leather when they ride. Whether riding in cold or hot weather. Some may wonder why the biker is usually wearing a form of leather, but just never ask.
The truth of the matter is this. They wear the leathers not only because they are cool looking. Also, the leather acts as a second skin in case of an accident. In an accident the leathers allow you to slide across the pavement. This way the pavement may eat away at your motorcycle leather chaps, but at the same time your leathers are helping to protect your skin.
Although, wearing leathers does not make you invincible, without leathers your skin is totally unprotected. I believe that all riders should have a set of quality genuine leathers if for no other reason than protection.
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